Tuesday, July 8, 2008

When in Rome - do as the Romans?



Hello everyone!

My apologies for taking soo long to post. Well, it's been a whirlwind of a stay here in Rome. Let me begin by saying that Rome is HUGE, super hot and muggy - a veritable concrete jungle. I have had the good fortune of getting lost on the massive public transportation system a number of times, but have recovered in one piece ... my feet may say otherwise if asked. Yesterday, there was a national transportation strike, so moving the old fashioned way was rather useful. Since my arrival, I have been overwhelmed with people's (mostly migrants) willingness to talk about ageing, eldercare, and the migrant women who work as caregivers or badanti. Finding Italians - that is, children in their 50s-60s who have either opted to use the services of a badanti, or have chosen to care for their elderly parents, themselves, has been more of a challenge. To quote an Italian priest whose help I sought to try and find some of these Italians, "You want to speak to the children of the elderly? That's going to be very difficult - they are all very busy you know." Things are moving along, though. Through some family contacts here, I am inching in on this community. Not surprisingly, it is mostly women who coordinate the care of their elderly parents. I've asked about the role of Italian men, and the usual response is that Italian men don't think to be coordinators of care - not that they necessarily wouldn't do this job, it is just not something that they expect to do.

Growing older in Italy doesn't appear to be a well-received phenomenon. Most of the functional elderly (late 70s/80s) that I have interviewed have said that they would much rather be on the other side already. A typical response goes something like Really, what am I doing here, except taking up space and costing money. Among younger Italians (50s/60s), there is a hope that they will not live that long, although most expect that they will, given the current phenomenon. The 50s/60s Italians are a busy group with a number of extra-curricular activities that I cannot imagine keeping track of. There are book clubs, choir rehearsals, as well extra gatherings of such groups, just to "get together." Those that are grandparents among this age group like playing the part of grandparent, but also enjoy having their own time.

There is a senior social center near the apartment where I live that I try to frequent at least once a week in the evening when it is most active. A decent number of "seniors" that frequent the center aren't people that I would consider seniors at all, but rather early retirees by American standards. It is a challenge to think of somebody in their late 50s and early 60s as a senior citizen. Most Sunday mornings I frequent a Ukrainian congregation, and then a Latin American congregation in the afternoon. I've also frequented a Filipino congregation Thursdays. Nevertheless, I think that the strongest links that I have built among the migrant communities have been among the Ukrainians, which is fabulous, considering that most of the women who work as badanti are from the Ukraine. Contact with the Romanian community, which is the migrant community that I originally thought would be accessible, has been limited.

Highlights
  • I "learned" how to dance the tango at the senior center;
  • I've twice been offered jobs as a babysitter and as a badante; it is an interesting time to look ethnic in Italy, since most Latin American women work as caregivers or domestic workers;
  • If I had more time, I might have given it a go, although I have to admit that the job of being with an elderly person 24 hours a day, almost seven days a week with only Thursday afternoons and and all of Sunday off seems quite daunting;
  • Rome is full of migrants from all over the world it seems, and at times, the tension created by the need for migrants, especially caregivers, and the lack of regularization of such migrants, is palpable;
  • Most migrant women that I spoke with have stated that although the Italians have told them that they are considered family, this is usually only the case until she does something that doesn't fit well with the expectations of the Italian family (i.e. finding a better paying job, and announcing that she is leaving the family);
  • The Italians that I have spoken with are split regarding whether they would consider the badante as a member of the famliy; it depends on how family is defined - to paraphrase The line between being considered family is difficult because you are paying somebody to not only meet the physical needs of your parents, but to keep your parent company, which is a family expectation, no?
The increasing number of elderly and migration are topics that are frequently touched upon by the Italian media, so the timing for the topic is perfect. The first picture is a celebration held by the ACLI (roughly Association of Christian Labor Workers) to celebrate family and migrants. It was interesting to see the parade of nationalities with the Italian national anthem playing in the background. The second picture, of course, is the Colosseum - typically Roman, and Italian.

Hope everyone is doing well. : D

4 comments:

Susan said...

Good Grief, Laura, it sounds like you've really been able to get involved in some serious "participant observation"...

Right now I feel like that's what I'm lacking. I've got these kind of disembodied/ungrounded interviews where I'm not spending much time with anyone or any institution on a day-to-day basis. I know Sohini and I have commiserated a little on having similarly locality-less projects, but it's a constant worry in the back of me head...

I love that you took tango classes a the senior center...How much longer are you there? Your report sounded a bit like you're wrapping things up -- and starting to draw some conclusions...

Laura (laouwra) said...

Conclusions! Augh! I think I am more confused now than when I first arrived. I feel some pressure, both from me, and from some Italian colleagues that I have met to cut to the chase (as it were). I am here until August 8th, but Carlos arrives on the 26th of July, and while I am certain that I will still be running all over Rome, I would like to begin tying loose ends sooner rather than later ... which in Italy could take the rest of my time here, given the expansive bureaucratic way of getting things done.

Stacey said...

hey now, susan, why is this commiseration so private/exclusive? commisery loves company too you know. and i can't even pick a city, let alone a particant-observable locality. i've been wondering how you gals spend your days especially as i can no longer excuse myself from doing research completely. so yeah, share :)

and láura, sounds like you're getting great stuff, and you have a year to make sense of anything in the form of conclusions etc. confusion is good -- just call it "displacement" (intellectual, cultural, whatever) and you're set.

Susan said...

I spent several weeks playing with friends and writing my Kay Warren paper. I mean, really, why go to the field if not to NOT to fieldwork?

Please, join in the commiseration, Stacey. I do not mean to exclude you from the "CRAP, what have I done with my time" (besides uploading photos of me playing with friends)?" club. Oh, I also check the blog to see if anyone has posted. Lately I have been handsomely rewarded for my bad use of time (with new blog posts from my cohort!).

Really, I spend a lot of my time on minibuses. I think I'm averaging 3 or 4 hours a day. And that is NOT an exaggeration. Ironically, I am living in El Alto to be closer to my supposed (yet non-existent) research site, but many of my interviews are an hour and a half away from my house the belly of La Paz.